Nozzle set

The G1 uses interchangeable nozzles that determine the line width (extrusion width) and therefore the speed and detail of prints. The nozzle screws onto the bottom of the barrel.

Watch it

G1 Nozzle Change — Quick Guide — 1:52, official Ginger Additive video. More on Official videos.

Available sizes

The G1 nozzle set is 1.8 mm, 3 mm, 5 mm and 8 mm. A 1 mm nozzle exists for specific R&D projects — ask the Ginger Additive team (see the Ginger shop).

Nozzle	Line width	Best for
1 mm	Fine detail, slow prints	Small objects, high detail, delicate structures
1.8 mm	Fine-medium	The most versatile: sculptures, mechanical parts, most objects. Around 150 mm/s and 150–200 mm³/s, so mind the layer time
3 mm	Medium	Parts that need strength, with 3 mm walls; chairs, covers and lamps in vase mode. Supports get harder
5 mm	Medium-large	Almost only vase mode: large layers as the object’s look, or thick parts to mill (moulds). The geometry must be engineered
8 mm	Large	As 5 mm, even more marked. Speed drops: flow and layer time become the limit — around 300 mm³/s, 400–500 with some plastics or with SmoothFlow

With PETG and rPLA on the 1.8 mm nozzle, keep the Feeding Zone temperature lower.

Nozzle material

The G1 nozzle is made from hardened stainless steel, designed for:

• Glass fiber (GF) reinforced materials
• Carbon fiber (CF) filled materials
• Recycled pellets with abrasive fines

No special nozzle upgrade is needed for abrasive materials — the standard nozzle handles them.

Layer height rule

The shipped process profiles settle this — layer height sits at roughly half the nozzle diameter, with line width a little above it:

Nozzle	Layer height	Line width
1.0 mm	0.6 mm	1.2 mm
1.8 mm	0.9 mm	1.9 mm
3.0 mm	1.3 mm	3.2 mm
5.0 mm	2.5 mm	5.5 mm
8.0 mm	4.0 mm	9.5 mm

Pick the process profile that matches your nozzle and both follow automatically.

Exceeding this ratio causes the nozzle to drag on the previous layer, leading to apparent “layer shift” or surface defects.

The 1 mm nozzle asks for more attention than the others

Its maximum flow, around 150 mm³/s, is also the flow below which the barrel inlet starts to plug — so it always runs in that window. Keep its Feeding Zone low from the start. See Nozzle and barrel clog.

When to replace the nozzle

There is no interval. A nozzle is not replaced after so many kilograms or so many hours — it is replaced when it stops doing its job. Signs of a worn nozzle:

• Inconsistent line width even after Rotation Volume calibration
• Visible scoring or denting at the nozzle tip (from collision with the print or bed)
• Extrusion becomes irregular without any change in material or settings

A nozzle can also be damaged by:

• Crashing into the bed during homing (if Z offset is incorrect)
• Printing at excessive speed above Max Volumetric Speed
• Physical impact

Installation requirement: PTFE tape

Every new nozzle must have PTFE tape (teflon tape) wrapped for 3 turns around the thread before installation. This seals the thread against the barrel and prevents molten plastic from leaking along the thread during printing.

Caution

Omitting the PTFE tape causes plastic leaks along the thread. Always apply 3 turns before installing any nozzle — new or reinstalled.

Replacement procedure

The easiest way to replace the nozzle is to use the built-in CHANGE_NOZZLE macro from the printer display:

1. From the KlipperScreen display, open Macros and run CHANGE_NOZZLE
2. The guided procedure walks through 5 steps — it positions the printhead automatically and manages temperatures
3. See the full step-by-step guide: Nozzle replacement

The machine has a guided procedure for this — the CHANGE_NOZZLE macro, walked through step by step with photographs in Nozzle replacement. Use it. The outline below is what that procedure does, not a substitute for it.

The barrel stays hot

The nozzle has to be at printing temperature to come off — a cold one strips its threads. That means you are working next to a hot barrel throughout, and the macro cooling the nozzle zone does not cool the barrel.

Heat-resistant gloves, or at least a folded cloth. Never bare hands.

1. Heat all zones to the printing temperature for the material in the barrel — the figures are in Material profiles
2. Hold the barrel with a wrench — never apply torque to the barrel body itself
3. Unscrew the old nozzle — clockwise as you see it from above, standing at the machine. It is a normal right-hand thread; looking down at it reverses the direction. See Nozzle replacement
4. Wrap the new nozzle’s thread with PTFE tape, 3 turns. Without it, molten plastic leaks along the thread
5. Thread it on finger-tight, using a cloth or gloves
6. Tighten gently with a wrench — do not overtighten
7. After cooling and reheating, re-check tightness
8. Recalibrate Z offset and first layer — a new nozzle changes the Z reference

Ordering

Spare nozzles are available from Ginger Additive — current sizes and prices are on the shop.

• Other sizes: check the Ginger shop

Related notes

• Layer shift — layer height vs nozzle size ratio
• Nozzle and barrel clog — cleaning a clogged nozzle
• Barrel clog purging procedure — full purge when nozzle is severely blocked
• Z offset and first layer — recalibrate after nozzle change
• Max Volumetric Speed — maximum flow rate per nozzle size