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Bed adhesion sprays

Release agents and adhesion promoters used on the G1 build plate. The right product depends on the bed surface (glass, PEI, wood) and the material being printed.

  • Glass bed + PETG → can stick too well, use a release agent
  • Glass bed + PLA → light spray helps grip on cold first layers
  • Any bed + large parts that warp → adhesion promoter
  • Switching between materials that need different adhesion strategies
ProductTypeBest for
DimaFixAdhesion promoter (sticks more)Glass bed, large parts, ABS, PETG-GF
MagiGooAdhesion promoterGlass / PEI, most polymers
3DLacHairspray-style adhesionPLA, light use
Hairspray (lacca)Adhesion promoterPLA / rPLA on glass — confirmed by official Ginger video
RainXRelease agent (sticks less)Glass + PETG when removal is hard
PVA glue stickAdhesion promoterBudget option, glass / PEI
  1. Bed cold (room temp)
  2. Spray a thin, even layer across the print area
  3. Let dry for ~30 seconds (it goes from wet to a slight dry haze)
  4. Heat the bed and start printing
  5. Reapply every few prints — a single application can cover multiple jobs

Confirmed by the official Ginger Additive support video as a valid adhesion promoter for PLA on the glass bed:

  1. Bed cold
  2. Spray a light, even coat across the print area
  3. Let dry before heating the bed
  4. Heat the bed and start printing

Applying hairspray to the glass bed for PLA printing

RainX automotive water repellent is the recommended release agent for PETG on glass.

RainX bottle — automotive water repellent used as a release agent for PETG on glass

  1. Bed cold
  2. Spray very lightly only on areas where parts stick too hard
  3. Wipe gently with a clean cloth so a thin film remains
  4. Heat and print

Combined technique: RainX + DimaFix for PETG

Section titled “Combined technique: RainX + DimaFix for PETG”

For demanding PETG prints (large surface area, high warp risk), the most reliable approach is a two-product combination:

  1. Apply RainX first as a base layer (water-repellent prevents PETG bonding too hard to bare glass)
  2. Let it dry completely
  3. Apply a thin layer of DimaFix on top (adhesion promoter for secure first layer)

This combination gives better control than either product alone: parts release cleanly when cold but adhere reliably during printing. Confirmed by Ginger Additive support across multiple customer cases.

When switching between sprays:

  1. Bed cold
  2. Wipe with isopropyl alcohol (≥ 90%) and a clean microfiber cloth
  3. For stubborn build-up, use warm soapy water, then dry, then alcohol
  4. Apply the new product on a clean dry bed
  • Most flexible: works with any spray
  • PETG sticks too hard without a release agent — RainX or thin DimaFix layer
  • Easy to clean with alcohol
  • PETG on bare glass can chip the glass surface when removing the print — always apply 3DLac, DimaFix, or RainX as a protective release layer before printing PETG on glass
  • PETG with absorbed moisture sticks even harder — damp PETG can grip glass so strongly that the entire glass bed shatters when the print cools. Dry PETG before printing and always use a release layer. Confirmed in multiple customer cases (complete glass shattering, not just chipping).

If the glass bed cracks or shatters, replace with:

  • 120 × 120 cm, 6 mm thick, tempered glass
  • Order from a local glass supplier — typically 50–70€
  • Alternative tested by customers: 4 mm glass-fiber (G10) sheet — works but leaves surface texture marks on the print underside and is more expensive
  • Often doesn’t need spray for PLA / PETG
  • For very large or warp-prone parts, light DimaFix
  • Don’t use abrasive cleaners — damages the surface
  • Needs more aggressive promoter
  • Light DimaFix or PVA glue stick works
  • Replace the wood surface periodically as it degrades
  • Print sticks too hard, can’t release → use a release agent, or wait for the bed to cool fully before removal
  • Print lifts mid-print (warping) → use an adhesion promoter, increase bed temp, add a brim
  • Inconsistent adhesion across the bed → bed not flat, mesh leveling needed; see Z offset and first layer
  • Build-up of old product → clean with alcohol, reapply fresh
  • Choose the right product for your bed + material combination
  • Apply on a cold, clean bed — never spray a hot bed (uneven, can damage surface)
  • Reapply periodically rather than printing on a depleted layer
  • Tune Z offset correctly first — most “adhesion problems” are actually first-layer height
  • Pattern observed across many customer cases
  • Most adhesion complaints are solved by (a) correct Z offset then (b) right spray — in that order
  • DimaFix is a popular default for production users