PETG
PETG is tougher than PLA, survives more heat, and is the material most G1 production work runs on. It is also the one that asks for the most attention: it is highly hygroscopic, and it sticks to the extrusion screw, which is where most PETG problems on this machine actually come from.
Pros and cons
Section titled “Pros and cons”| Good | Less good |
|---|---|
| Tough, far less brittle than PLA | Highly hygroscopic — drying is mandatory, not optional |
| HDT above 70°C, against PLA’s ~50°C | Cakes onto the screw without SmoothFlow |
| Excellent layer adhesion when properly dried | Strings more than PLA |
| Tolerates sitting in the extruder longer than PLA | |
| Clear grades stay transparent | Bonds to glass hard enough to chip it |
| Wide grade range: fibre-filled, flame-retardant, coloured | Needs a heated bed; more warping than PLA |
Starting parameters
Section titled “Starting parameters”These are the values in Ginger Slicer’s own profiles. They are the only figures that count: the slicer is what sends temperatures to the printer, so a number written anywhere else is a copy that can drift.
| Profile | Zone 1 | Zone 2 | Zone 3 | Bed | MVS |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Generic PETG | 220 | 240 | 240 | 80 | 200 |
| Azure PETG | 210 | 210 | 210 | 80 | 250 |
| FormFutura rPETG | 215 | 235 | 235 | 80 | 200 |
| FormFutura rPETG 10GF | 205 | 225 | 225 | 80 | 200 |
| FormFutura rPETG 20GF | 220 | 235 | 245 | 80 | 200 |
| Generic PETG GF | 220 | 235 | 245 | 80 | 200 |
| Polymaker PETG 10GF | 190 | 230 | 240 | 80 | 200 |
| Polymaker PETG 20GF | 220 | 230 | 240 | 80 | 200 |
Pick the profile for the pellet you are running. If there is no profile for your grade, start from Generic PETG and copy it before changing anything — see Material profiles.
| Other settings | |
|---|---|
| SmoothFlow | Effectively required. Dose is in SmoothFlow — one place, so it cannot drift |
| Drying | Mandatory — 60–70°C, at least 4 h, 6 h recommended. Even from a freshly opened sealed bag |
On the 1.8 mm nozzle the flow is slow enough that this bites at normal settings — drop the Feeding Zone to around 190°C while leaving the other two zones alone.
Drying, and watching the dryer
Section titled “Drying, and watching the dryer”Drying is not optional for PETG. 60–70°C depending on the grade, 4 hours minimum, 6 recommended.
Its two real problems
Section titled “Its two real problems”Everything else about PETG is easy. It prints readily, tolerates sitting in the extruder longer than PLA, and clogs less — though a slow print can still plug the inlet. What actually causes trouble is that it sticks ferociously to hot surfaces, and there are two of those on the machine.
1. It cakes onto the screw
Section titled “1. It cakes onto the screw”PETG welds itself to the steel in the upper part of the screw. Once that happens the torque needed to turn the screw exceeds what the motor can give, and the material becomes unprintable — it reads as an MVS or motor problem, and it is neither.
The fix comes from injection moulding, where an oil is blended with the pellets for the same reason. On the G1 the product for this is SmoothFlow:
- Start at 0.05% — 0.5 g per 1 kg of pellets, and never go above 0.1%. See SmoothFlow
- Mix it thoroughly through the pellets before printing, not on top of a full hopper
That is enough to stop the material adhering in the upper screw. Liquid Masterbatch lubricates too, since it is oil-based, so a coloured run may need less.
2. It bonds to the glass and chips it
Section titled “2. It bonds to the glass and chips it”PETG grips the print surface hard enough to pull chips out of the glass when a part is removed. This damages the bed, not just the print.
Use a spray. DimaFix is the one to reach for: it holds the part while the bed is hot, then releases as the bed cools at the end of the print, so the part comes away without taking the glass with it.
What PETG is good at
Section titled “What PETG is good at”- Fully transparent in clear grades
- Excellent layer adhesion — the strongest of the two polymers on this machine
- HDT above 70°C, against PLA deforming around 50°C
- Glass-fibre filled PETG is the most dimensionally accurate material on the G1 — if the part has to hold a tolerance, that is the grade to use
Grades
Section titled “Grades”Clear and coloured
Section titled “Clear and coloured”Clear grades stay transparent and suit light-pipe and decorative work. Pre-compounded coloured pellets need no Liquid Masterbatch.
Glass-fibre reinforced (PETG GF)
Section titled “Glass-fibre reinforced (PETG GF)”The usual choice for large structural and outdoor parts. Fibre cuts warping sharply and holds dimensions over time and temperature, at a fraction of the cost of PA or PC.
| Fill | When |
|---|---|
| 10% GF | Better rigidity than plain PETG with a still-smooth surface — start here when the part is visible |
| 20% GF | Maximum stability and warp resistance; the surface is rougher and visibly fibrous |
GF pellets usually arrive with a white pigment. For colour, ask the supplier for a GF natural or GF clear base and add Liquid Masterbatch; solid masterbatch needs about 2% to come out homogeneous and shifts viscosity slightly.
Flame-retardant grades
Section titled “Flame-retardant grades”Two ratings turn up, and they are different standards rather than different strengths of the same one:
| Grade | Standard | Meaning |
|---|---|---|
| V0 | UL94 | Self-extinguishing within 10 s, no flaming drips. The stricter of the two |
| B1/S1/D0 | EN 13501-1 | European construction rating: low flammability, low smoke, no burning droplets |
Both need care:
- They absorb moisture faster than standard PETG. Dry longer — 6–8 h at 65–70°C. Yellowish pellets, or a visible bubble inside a granule, mean the batch is wet
- They stick to the screw more. SmoothFlow or Liquid Masterbatch is effectively required
- Do not assume standard PETG temperatures. The retardant package changes the melt viscosity, and V0 in particular tends to run cooler
- Batch consistency varies more than on plain grades — test before committing to a production run
Emissions from filled and flame-retardant grades are not well characterised in the published literature. Get the SDS for the specific grade: the additive package is what carries the hazard. See Safety and fumes.
Common issues
Section titled “Common issues”| Symptom | Cause and fix |
|---|---|
| Foaming, bubbles, popping | Wet pellets. See PETG foaming and moisture |
| Screw turns, nothing extrudes | Plug at the barrel inlet. Take the hopper off and lift it out, then lower the Feeding Zone. See Nozzle and barrel clog |
| Motor skipping at high flow | Missing SmoothFlow before it is an MVS problem. See Extruder motor skipping |
| Part will not come off the glass | It bonded. Let the bed cool fully, or use a release agent — see Bed adhesion sprays |
| First layers milky on clear PETG | Bed too hot |
| Stringing between parts | Tune retraction in Ginger Slicer |
Storage
Section titled “Storage”- Reseal the bag the moment you finish, with desiccant inside
- Never leave pellets sitting in an open hopper between prints
- Re-dry after any pause longer than 24 h
Supply
Section titled “Supply”Stock comes from Formfutura — clear, GF 10%, GF 20%, and both flame-retardant grades — and Polymaker PolyCore (PETG-1000 / 1013 / 1211). Contact Formfutura sales for volume supply.
Most GF suppliers buy base resin from the same few petrochemical producers; what differs between them is fibre quality and how evenly it is blended.