Removing the print

Wait until the bed is back at room temperature, then lift the part off.

That is the whole procedure when it goes well, and the waiting is the part people skip. Glass and plastic shrink at different rates as they cool, and that difference is what breaks the bond — take the part off while the bed is still warm and you are fighting adhesion that would have released on its own a few minutes later.

It is also why DimaFix is the right product for PETG on this machine: it grips while the bed is hot and lets go as it cools, so a cold bed hands you the part.

When it will not come off

Two things to try, in this order. Neither involves force.

Cool it further. Room temperature is the baseline, not the limit. More contraction means less bond, so give it longer, or put the plate somewhere colder if you can move it.

Get a liquid under the edge. Something thin and penetrating — a glass cleaner works — run around the base of the part so it can creep into the joint between the print and the glass. It breaks the seal without any load on either.

Do not hit the part, and do not lever against it

Not with a mallet, not with a screwdriver under a corner, not by twisting it.

The plate is 6 mm tempered glass. It takes the weight of a print without complaint and it does not take a point load or a shock — and when tempered glass fails it does not chip, it comes apart. A PETG part that has bonded to bare glass can take a piece of the plate with it even when lifted gently; struck, it takes more.

If cooling and a penetrating liquid have not worked, leave it and come back to it colder. There is no version of this where hitting it is the answer.

Why it was stuck in the first place

Worth knowing, so the next print is easier rather than the same fight:

• PETG printed on bare glass. It bonds hard enough to chip the plate. It needs a coat under it every time — see Bed adhesion sprays
• The PETG was wet. Damp PETG grips harder still, and has broken plates outright. Dry it — see Starting the dryer
• The first layer was too low. An over-squashed first layer has more contact area and more mechanical key. That is a Z offset problem, and it shows up as an adhesion problem
• The wrong product, or none. A release agent and an adhesion promoter do opposite jobs; the spray note says which to use for what

After it is off

• Scrape the residue before the next print — a plastic spatula, on a cold bed
• Reapply the coat if you use one. It depletes, and a depleted layer is what lets the next part bond directly to the glass
• Full cleaning routine: Bed surface

Related notes

• Bed adhesion sprays — what to put down, and when
• Bed surface — the plate, and replacing it if it does break
• Z offset and first layer — where most adhesion trouble actually starts
• Warping — the opposite problem: it came off during the print